The sapucainha oil whose INCI registration as “name: Carpotroche brasiliensis (sapucainha) butter seed” is still pending, has similarities in its fatty composition with the oil described in the literature called chaulmoogra oil. The chaulmoogra oil has been known and used for centuries with therapeutic purposes and several documents in the literature describe its specific application for treating leprosy, its anti-inflammatory activity and its use in cosmetic compositions.
The chaulmoogra oil may be extracted, among other species, from plants of species popularly known in Brazil by the names sapucainha, papo-de-anjo, pau-de-cachimbo, pau-de-lepra, and others. The oil is normally extracted from the sapucainha seeds and its topical cosmetic use has been studied for application in several skin affections. Its therapeutic application is also known, and the chaulmoogra oil, because of its differentiated fatty composition, was largely used against leprosy. There are also reports of its anti-inflammatory activity.
Document U.S. Pat. No. 5,514,712 discloses the use of chaulmoogra oils in cosmetic and pharmaceutical compositions for harmonizing the pigmentation of the skin. The oils may be in the form of salt or ester. One of the major sources of this oil is the Carpotroche brasiliensis (sapucainha) plant.
Document FR 2 876 908 discloses the use of the chaulmoogra oil and/or components thereof in cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical compositions for treating or preventing the excess of fat and cellulitis. One of the major sources of this oil is the Carpotroche brasiliensis (sapucainha) plant.
Document FR 2 876 909, in turn, discloses a cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical composition to prevent or treat the excess of cellulitis and fat comprising the combination of one or more xanthinic bases and chaulmoogra oil and/or its components.
Another prior-art document disclosing the use of chaulmoogra oil in cosmetology is document FR 2 518 402, which mentions preferable applications in skin treatments such as acne, and hair care and makeup compositions. One of the major sources of this oil is the Carpotroche brasiliensis (sapucainha) plant.
Document GB 369 062 discloses compositions of anti-leprotic medicaments. In accordance with this document, the fatty acids, specially the chaulmoogric and hydnocarpic acids, obtained by saponification of the oils of flacourtiaceous seeds are purified by crystallization from alcohol and esterified with aliphatic, hydroaromatic or aromaticaliphatic alcohols to form the corresponding esters. Reduction of these esters gives the corresponding mixed alcohols, which may then be treated with acylating agents to produce their acyl esters. Plants of the Flacourtiaceae family mentioned are Taraktogenos kurzii, Hydnocarpus wightiana, Hydnocarpus anthelmintica, Carpotroche brasiliensis and Caloncoba echinata. The products are therapeutically useful.
Document U.S. Pat. No. 5,683,683 discloses a body wash composition comprising an anionic cleansing surfactant, such as an alkyl ether sulfate or an alkyl sulfate, a polymeric cationic conditioning compound, and a quaternized phosphate ester. This composition may also contain an oil, such as the chaulmoogra oil.
Document U.S. Pat. No. 5,342,965 discloses a process for producing branched fatty substances with the addition of maleic anhydride onto unsaturated fatty acids or lower alkyl esters thereof. The use of the chaulmoogric acid as raw material is foreseen.
U.S. Pat. No. 4,152,416 discloses aerosol antiperspirant compositions, capable of dispensing astringent salt with low mistiness and dustiness. The addition of cycloaliphatic acids as chaulmoogra oil fatty acids is provided.
The 2005 scientific paper “Anti-inflammatory and antinociceptive activities of an acid fraction of the seeds of Carpotroche brasiliensis (Raddi)” by Lima, -J-A; Oliveira, -A-S; de-Miranda, -A-L-P; Rezende, -C-M; Pinto, -A-C discloses the intrinsic activities of sapucainha, describing, in particular, its anti-inflammatory activity.
However, all the cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical compositions and uses described and provided for sapucainha oils also comprise the addition of silicones and fatty esters. On the other hand, there is a growing interest of the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry in obtaining products free from chemically-produced silicones and fatty esters, which cause environmental impact.